Thursday, 20 August 2009

Tuesday 18 August- Jodphur & feeling better

Claire was much better today. Not 100% but well enough to go out and about.

First of all, we went to a memorial to one of the most popular Maharajahs of Jodphur. He established sanitation & irrigation- which is why the town does not smell as bad as Jaipur... It is a lovely place and worth the visit.

After that we walked across to the Meherangarh fort. This fort dominates the town and is still run by the Maharajah- although they have absolutely no power at all anymore & it is mainly a ceremonial post. Building was started in 1806. We had a slow wander around- at roughly the pace which old people walk is the approximate speed.

Some of the history is facsinating & quite awful. There was a hermit which lived in a cave on the site of the fort. He got turfed out, and cursed the fort. In order to appease this, the Maharajah appealed for a human sacrifice. Someone came forward and agreed to be sealed alive in the foundation of the fort. I am sure that the hermit would have been satisfied with a new cave...

There are cannonball scars from previous battles & gates which are designed to keep out elephants. It really is medieval stuff... There was also a room dedicated to the seats which are used with elephants.

Other medieval practices includes Sarti. The traditional form of disposing of a body is through it being burnt. When a husband dies, it used to be custom that the widow would throw herself on to the funeral pyre. This practise is now against the law but it does happen in Rajastan- while we have been here, a woman was prevented from doing this by here relatives. In 1843, one of the Maharajah died and his 41 wives all committed Sarti. In order to show their devotion, they burnt to death in complete silence.. This was a last royal case of Sarti.

Pretty sobering stuff..

To be continued- off to get a boat trip now but I will add more to this.

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